Brewsville, USA
11:05 p.m. Friday, May 4
(Cafe Alfresco, Atlantis, Reno)
Off to a great start. Although the drive was slightly stressful since I left State Farm at 4:20 and the right rear tire was leaking air. I got to the LaQuinta at 7:25 and to Bruka by 7:50, just in the nick of time for the 8:00 p.m. show. I am now sipping the first beer of the brewpub tour: Blue Moon Belgian White at Café Alfresco at the Atlantis. Not cold enough, but I do taste the wheat, orange and coriander. Is this a hot cross bun or a brew? Never mind, it’s fine and foamy and I’m glad I didn’t get wine.
“It’s all about the music” – The-X 100.1 always reminds of me how great radio can be. It would seem Mike Morrison is their program director. On the drive up they played “Avalanche” by Shawn Colvin “So. Central Rain (I’m Sorry)” by REM and some ripping James Brown. It’s uncanny how often I hear my favorite songs on that station.
At the Bruka Theatre, Scott (the group’s founder and director of the evening’s show) seated me by two ladies he promised would be fun. They were both members of the company, and one, Kathy, had turned in a performance I truly admired in the first show I ever saw at Bruka: “Buried Child.” It was great to tell her how much I liked and remembered her work in that very difficult role. The show this evening, “Reefer Madness – the Musical,” was goofy and ham-acted with some pretty weak vocals. Did they really need mics in an 80 seat house? The dancing lacked skill but there were some really cool moments, including the gold-lame loinclothed Jesus offering “body of me” to the audience and Mary Lane searching for Jimmy from a boat and a plane and a rickshaw. The theatre filled with pot-smelling smoke and there were some creative tech devices. A fun evening – as Scott promised.
Now, one beer and a Greek pizza later, life is sweet. I just relaxed as I savored my last bite of kalamata olive, knowing there are more slices in the box to take with me to Oregon. Maybe this will be the pizza and beer vacation? So far, so great – but it’s pretty chilly out. Camping will be interesting tomorrow. I think I forgot my cap.
4:50 p.m., Saturday, May 5
(The Creamery – Klamath Basin Brewing Company: Drop Dead Red)
I ate the rest of the pizza (while driving) just past Alturas so I’m doing a brew only at the Creamery. It’s a beautiful afternoon – I’m going to sit outside.
This morning, after dropping my toasted bagel on the hall carpet and spilling OJ all over my freshly ironed pants, I decided to be proactive and figure out my tire situation. The thought of coming home to a car with a flat was decidedly unappealing. After shuttling to the airport to pick up my charcoal Accord, I returned to the LaQuinta and opened the yellow pages. ProTires seemed the most eager to help me, so I headed over there after checking out and packing up the rental car.
Their location at the south end of South Virginia was not convenient, but they looked at the tire right away, fixed it fast and didn’t charge me – WHAT??!!??. Talk about getting off on the right foot.
Klamath Falls is fine, but not a place I need to spend a lot of time in. I’m going to swig down this ale, hit the market and head to Collier State Park. Hopefully, I’m on a karma roll.
8:00 p.m Sunday, May 6th
(Bend Brewing Company: Elk Lake IPA)
I’m waiting for my Reuben to arrive. It was tough deciding between here and Deschutes Brewing, but since this is along the river and had a banner outside declaring it was voted Best of Central Oregon: Casual Dining, here I am.
Off to a great start. Although the drive was slightly stressful since I left State Farm at 4:20 and the right rear tire was leaking air. I got to the LaQuinta at 7:25 and to Bruka by 7:50, just in the nick of time for the 8:00 p.m. show. I am now sipping the first beer of the brewpub tour: Blue Moon Belgian White at Café Alfresco at the Atlantis. Not cold enough, but I do taste the wheat, orange and coriander. Is this a hot cross bun or a brew? Never mind, it’s fine and foamy and I’m glad I didn’t get wine.
“It’s all about the music” – The-X 100.1 always reminds of me how great radio can be. It would seem Mike Morrison is their program director. On the drive up they played “Avalanche” by Shawn Colvin “So. Central Rain (I’m Sorry)” by REM and some ripping James Brown. It’s uncanny how often I hear my favorite songs on that station.
At the Bruka Theatre, Scott (the group’s founder and director of the evening’s show) seated me by two ladies he promised would be fun. They were both members of the company, and one, Kathy, had turned in a performance I truly admired in the first show I ever saw at Bruka: “Buried Child.” It was great to tell her how much I liked and remembered her work in that very difficult role. The show this evening, “Reefer Madness – the Musical,” was goofy and ham-acted with some pretty weak vocals. Did they really need mics in an 80 seat house? The dancing lacked skill but there were some really cool moments, including the gold-lame loinclothed Jesus offering “body of me” to the audience and Mary Lane searching for Jimmy from a boat and a plane and a rickshaw. The theatre filled with pot-smelling smoke and there were some creative tech devices. A fun evening – as Scott promised.
Now, one beer and a Greek pizza later, life is sweet. I just relaxed as I savored my last bite of kalamata olive, knowing there are more slices in the box to take with me to Oregon. Maybe this will be the pizza and beer vacation? So far, so great – but it’s pretty chilly out. Camping will be interesting tomorrow. I think I forgot my cap.
4:50 p.m., Saturday, May 5
(The Creamery – Klamath Basin Brewing Company: Drop Dead Red)
I ate the rest of the pizza (while driving) just past Alturas so I’m doing a brew only at the Creamery. It’s a beautiful afternoon – I’m going to sit outside.
This morning, after dropping my toasted bagel on the hall carpet and spilling OJ all over my freshly ironed pants, I decided to be proactive and figure out my tire situation. The thought of coming home to a car with a flat was decidedly unappealing. After shuttling to the airport to pick up my charcoal Accord, I returned to the LaQuinta and opened the yellow pages. ProTires seemed the most eager to help me, so I headed over there after checking out and packing up the rental car.
Their location at the south end of South Virginia was not convenient, but they looked at the tire right away, fixed it fast and didn’t charge me – WHAT??!!??. Talk about getting off on the right foot.
Klamath Falls is fine, but not a place I need to spend a lot of time in. I’m going to swig down this ale, hit the market and head to Collier State Park. Hopefully, I’m on a karma roll.
8:00 p.m Sunday, May 6th
(Bend Brewing Company: Elk Lake IPA)
I’m waiting for my Reuben to arrive. It was tough deciding between here and Deschutes Brewing, but since this is along the river and had a banner outside declaring it was voted Best of Central Oregon: Casual Dining, here I am.
It’s been a good day. It was a cold morning at Collier State Park after a 33° night. An early stroll to the amphitheatre froze my feet. Just beyond, I found the Williamson River (which was right near my campsite but not visible) and I took the beautiful trail that lead to Spring Creek as the warming sun ascended. What a lovely spot, the only downside that it’s so close to the highway. I watched a pair of Mergansers (hooded?) shoot the rapids and spotted lots of random birds – as the e-brochure had advertised.
There was a bridge leading to the outdoor “logging museum,” so I wandered over and had the place to myself: looking into old cabins and trying to figure out how giant logging machines worked. This was not readily apparent. It was an interesting spot and I’m glad I didn’t have to cut it from the itinerary.
I reluctantly returned to the campsite and I finally got my steaming Styrofoam cup of freeze-dried coffee (- aah) while an aggressive chipmunk jumped on my boots (which were on my feet). I started packing up and had the traditional yogurt and granola bar camp breakfast. I didn’t get out of there until 11, but it was a great start to the day. I so would have liked to have had more time to explore the creekside trails.
Next up. my first Oregon “full serve” experience with two Deliverance-style locals who ran the old gas station just north of Chiloquin. I didn’t realize you can’t self-serve in the state. “Tubby” started up a conversation about how rock and blues don’t mix and how he likes late era ZZ Top but not the 70’s stuff. This could have lead to the penultimate “Bad Girls Guide to the Road” experience, but instead I paid up and pointed the Accord toward Crater Lake.
The road was gorgeous, skirting the north end of Klamath Lake in a pastoral valley ringed by snow clad peaks. I wasn’t expecting eight feet of snow at Crater, which really limited the options there. I stopped in 2 places and gazed at the water-filled basin for about 5 minutes. That, along with the obligatory stop at the Visitor Center and I was pretty much done. Too bad I didn’t have my skis with me! This was not really worth the 100 mile detour, but now I won’t need to go there again. At least for another thirty years.
There was a bridge leading to the outdoor “logging museum,” so I wandered over and had the place to myself: looking into old cabins and trying to figure out how giant logging machines worked. This was not readily apparent. It was an interesting spot and I’m glad I didn’t have to cut it from the itinerary.
I reluctantly returned to the campsite and I finally got my steaming Styrofoam cup of freeze-dried coffee (- aah) while an aggressive chipmunk jumped on my boots (which were on my feet). I started packing up and had the traditional yogurt and granola bar camp breakfast. I didn’t get out of there until 11, but it was a great start to the day. I so would have liked to have had more time to explore the creekside trails.
Next up. my first Oregon “full serve” experience with two Deliverance-style locals who ran the old gas station just north of Chiloquin. I didn’t realize you can’t self-serve in the state. “Tubby” started up a conversation about how rock and blues don’t mix and how he likes late era ZZ Top but not the 70’s stuff. This could have lead to the penultimate “Bad Girls Guide to the Road” experience, but instead I paid up and pointed the Accord toward Crater Lake.
The road was gorgeous, skirting the north end of Klamath Lake in a pastoral valley ringed by snow clad peaks. I wasn’t expecting eight feet of snow at Crater, which really limited the options there. I stopped in 2 places and gazed at the water-filled basin for about 5 minutes. That, along with the obligatory stop at the Visitor Center and I was pretty much done. Too bad I didn’t have my skis with me! This was not really worth the 100 mile detour, but now I won’t need to go there again. At least for another thirty years.
The drive along the Rogue River back to Highway 97 was also beautiful – so it was a good car day. I stopped in the forest for a cup of beer (Miller, which tasted like Club Soda after the ales!) along with crackers, cheese and avocado (from Mike’s Dad’s ranch) and got my first bug bite of the season. A cause for celebration?
Finally, I arrived in Bend and circled for an hour trying to locate the Quality Inn, even though I called them for directions. Just prior to this, I checked my cell phone and had 6 messages – three from Mom since Bill was back in the hospital after emergency surgery – Yikes! I got to talk with him and he sounded okay, all things considered.
At the QI, Helen greeted me and noticing I was a Californian was quick to offer that she used to work at Fred Segal. Also, someone she knew once lived in Mammoth, but she couldn’t recall his name.
A hot shower worked wonders, and the day of exploration set up a hearty appetite. I got back in the car bound for downtown Bend. As it turns out, the sandwich and side salad were delish, and so I’ll have to concur with the banner.
8:48 a.m. Monday, May 7th
(Quality Inn – Bend)
Having just finished my hot waffle “en suite,” I thought I’d continue this disjointed travel journal before hitting the road again. I woke up fresh and raring to go this morning at 7:00 a.m. I need to chill a bit, as I feel like I’ve been rushing from place to place. I did the yoga Sun Ceremony after my shower to try to find my center.
Before I move on, some comments about the accommodations here. Although the lobby smells like “Helen’s Kitchen” (she was cooking dinner when I arrived), the accommodations are clean and serviceable even though the furniture is a little banged up. My room has a beautiful view of the Cascades and is next to brushy acreage. It was fun to hear the cows mooing and frogs croaking last night. Unfortunately, the walls are paper thin and you can hear every conversation and cough from the adjoining rooms. Fortunately, there were no late parties last night.
4:00 p.m. Monday, May 7th
(Hood River – Full Sail Brewery: Sampler Tray)
Could life be more perfect? $5.00 for 7 four ounce sampler glasses:
1) Sessions Lager: Yum, I’m not sure I’ve had a better lager anywhere.
Today has been characterized by completely perfect weather.
2) Pale Ale: In the American Pale Ale style, “a godlike nectar” (so says the promotional literature). Who am I to disagree?
BTW, the hummus plate is to die for. Delicious hot grilled flatbread, and kalamata olives (again) and fresh tomatoes and cucumbers drizzled in virgin olive oil served alongside the garlicky hummus. There are lots of sunburned white people here. I think the glorious weather caught everyone off guard. I myself am sporting a bright red left arm from driving.
3) India Pale Ale: I liked this less at first sip and more at last sip. I didn’t notice the pronounced citrus note
4) Limited 02: This is good – as the sign says, “bella good”
5) Amber: surprising clear, not cloying like a lot of reds. The finish is floral. Maybe I’ll move to Hood River Valley and grow hops.
How lucky I am to be here on an uncrowded Monday afternoon, when I can hog this table for four under a broad umbrella with a perfect view of the wind/kitesurfers on the Columbia River below.
6) Brewmaster Reserve – Nugget Special Red Ale (with 8 malts): It’s really good, too – although my palate is definitely slackening.
7) Brewmaster Reserve – Top Sail Imperial Porter: Okay, now I definitely can’t drive. I’m glad I came here first so I can stroll around town for a while before getting back in the car. “An amplified, robust porter with a deep black color” It wants for hazelnut ice cream (to become an Alpenrose-style adult float)
Oh my god, it’s so-o-o beautiful here.
This morning, I stopped at a park along the Deschutes River in downtown Bend and gazed at the gorgeous mansions along the water. Then, I took a quick tour through the Old Mill District before hitting Highway 20 bound for Sisters, which was comprised of cutesy gift shops and restaurants. Naturally, the town was meticulous and Oregon-anal. I felt peckish, so stopped at the riverside park to enjoy a picnic of leftover Asian salad and crackers with avocado and pepper jack.
I just got the bill here at Full Sail - $12.00 for this little slice of heaven, pre-tip. No tax on food in this state and no pumping your own gas, either. At this point, I reach into my purse and realize I have no wallet! I explain my predicament, offer to leave my cell phone for proof of my return, but am told that won’t be necessary. I hustle back to the Accord and fortunately the wallet is in full view on the passenger seat. Crisis averted!
After settling up, I spend an hour walking around the delightful burg of Hood River, trying to lose the buzz and imagining a life here. There is something special about this place. This is my third visit, and it’s always lived up to my expectations: pretty, friendly, hip, with good energy.
Finally, I felt ready to head west and got back on Highway 84, while listening to the new Arcade Fire CD. I veered onto the old historic highway, which was leafy and lush. In no time, I arrived at Multnomah Falls. It was now about 6:00, but I filled my fanny pack, switched into hiking boots and headed up the paved trail. The views of the Columbia Gorge were stupendous and it was the perfect time of day and the exact right temperature: cool in the shadows and warm in the sun. I broke into a sweat as I tackled the switchbacks up the 700’ gain. My wind was definitely better than it would have been at altitude! The top of the falls were pretty neat, especially the shadowy moist canyon that controlled the stream before its precipitous drop. It was now nearing sunset, and the late afternoon glow illuminated the Columbia River far below. So worth it.
From there, it was an easy swing into Portland – but that’s where the ease ended. I’m not sure where my MapQuest directions were to, but it wasn’t the Red Lion Jantzen Beach. I became trapped downtown, surrounded by bridges and streets closed to construction. There was no place to pull over to use a phone or pull out a map. I wasn’t going to pay $8.00 to enter a parking structure just so I could check my bearings. Finally I found a parking spot on Stark St. and phoned the hotel. They only told me to get on “5-North” so I drove around some more in tearful frustration until I found an onramp. I didn’t arrive at my lodging until 10:00 p.m. Before entering, I dialed Mom, only to discover my phone had been on the blink and she was ready to call the police when she couldn’t reach me. In my agitated state, this pissed me off royally and I ended a beautiful day in a really foul mood.
7:20 a.m.Wednesday, May 9th.
(Red Lion Jantzen Beach)
I can’t believe it’s only Wednesday – I’ve done so much!
Yesterday, I slept in until 9:00 a.m., my first late morning. The hotel coffee shop was empty, so I headed across the street to Denny’s for a mega-meal breakfast ($5.99) of French toast, scrambled eggs, hash browns, sausage and bacon. And all this no sales tax really adds up.
The day began on a perplexing note as I spotted a scrape on the left front wheel well of the Accord that I didn’t put there. Either I hadn’t noticed it before or I was the victim of a hit and run. At any rate, I hadn’t factored a car repair expense into the budget. I adopted a “wait and see” approach, but started the day a little discouraged.
I made it to the Japanese Garden, which sits perched on a hillside above downtown, by noon. I entered feeling tense but the tranquility there was healing. The weather could not have been more perfect and the blooming rhododendrons and azaleas were bright against the deep Oregon springtime green. I decided to stick around for the free walking tour and I’m glad I did, as it truly enhanced my understanding of Japanese garden design.
Afterwards, I sat in an empty tennis court near the car and caught up with Bill and Mom (who I had just found the perfect Mothers’ Day gift for). As it happened, the Rose Test Garden was just a few steps below the tennis courts, so I spent some time strolling among the not-yet-flowering plants. Perhaps five bushes out of the hundreds there that had flowers.
(I just finished reading the weather section of the Oregonian. It’s been the first two 70° days in a row since October!).
I returned to the car and got on Burnside heading downtown. I found myself stuck in another construction-induced traffic jam and pulled a quick right onto Third to avoid crossing one of the ubiquitous bridges. They don’t call Portland “Bridgetown” for nothing. There, right in front of me was VooDoo Doughnuts! I parked nearby, with the idea of doing a downtown walking loop and finishing it off with a carb-refresher before returning to the car.
First up: a short tour of the historic Benson Hotel. Then I made a beeline to Powell’s Books - probably the biggest bookstore in the world. It occupies a full city block and has five stories filled with volumes. I walked out with a couple of used book deals. Next, I decided the microbrew of the day would come from Henry’s 12th Street Tavern, a block away. The dogs were barking and the closest brewery was 20 blocks away.
Henry’s was great – with a dress and behavior code: no backward caps or excessively baggy jeans, NO PROFANITY. They had 100 beers on tap, over 50 of them are hand crafted. I settled on a Deschutes Mirror Pond (Pale Ale) since I missed that stop in Bend and eavesdropped while the guy next to me described a hidden brewery in Newport. It was happy hour, the pub was full of stylish Gen X and Y-ers and my ale stayed frosty cold on the belt of ice that rimmed the marble bartop. I snagged a California roll for $1.95 – nice.
Back on the streets, I pointed myself toward the Armory Building, home of the Eco-Trust and a new theatre – recently renovated with a green building ethic. Then I left the Pearl District and headed up to Pioneer Square, and I think I saw the red-tail hawk who has grown famous by nesting on a highrise rooftop and who is the star of a local news station’s ”Raptor Cam.” Finally, I made a quick stroll through a high-end city-center mall and then ventured back to 3rd Street.
Voo Doo Doughnuts was tiny! But the girl at the counter was super-friendly and a woman employee of Powell’s was there – she spotted my bag and reminded me that Michael Chabon (say SHAY-bun) would be speaking at the bookstore in half an hour. I love his work and he’s a hunk . . . . but, my parking was about to run out, my feet were tired and I had grown weary of negotiating the city,
Instead, and with a little disappointment, I slunk into Stumptown Coffee Roasters
(recommended by VooDoo – they advised I not buy their coffee!) and ordered a latte from the hot barista, which was served with heart-shaped foam! I sat down at the window bar, read the local weekly, and watched a guy in front of me at a sidewalk table use the free wi-fi to search for porn on his laptop. I stealthily ate my Portland Cream Doughnut – most delicious!
After a Walgreens run, I made the easy and now familiar trip back to the Red Lion. This room is definitely a steal at $69.00 per night. It’s gigantic, and on the newly renovated fourth floor with a balcony overlooking the pool and the broad Columbia beyond. The stylish décor includes a flat-screen TV mounted over the desk, a pillow-top bed and a small sofa and glass-topped coffee table. It’s cool being on this little island in the middle of the river, surrounded by restaurants and shops galore.
I opted for a “chill-out evening:” working on this journal, reading the Oregonian, grabbing a fast food meal and watching a show about Yosemite on the Travel Channel. I savored the irony of sitting in Oregon and viewing a travelogue about my home! Tomorrow starts day six of the adventure: the coast!
9:30 a.m. Thursday, May 10
(South Beach State Park)
I’m lingering over one last cup of campsite coffee. I just noticed my fingers aren’t working – stiff thumb, I guess. I didn’t make it to Florence yesterday. I ran out of daylight and I was hungry for Newport oysters.
Yesterday was another good one. I got a very late start out of Portland after lazing around the hotel room, reading and writing. I found a place to ship Mom’s ”Nurturing Family” Asian rabbit print and finally got on the freeway at noon.
The drive to Tillamook was beautiful, through a human planted forest which was a mere seventy-five years old. The biggest burn ever had raced through there in the 1930’s.
The Tillamook Cheese Factory was well worth the stop. I’m not sure why I find production lines so fascinating and hypnotic. Breakfast consisted of a wild huckleberry ice cream cone. Actually, the cone turned out to be lunch as well.
Next up: Cape Lookout. Bill did not exaggerate. This was an exceptionally beautiful spot with unparalleled vistas. Due to time constraints, I wasn’t able to reach the point, but thoroughly enjoyed the 2 hour – 3 mile stroll along the muddy trail with views of the Pacific on each side of the thin peninsula. It was like being on a very high, very long pier!
After a Walgreens run, I made the easy and now familiar trip back to the Red Lion. This room is definitely a steal at $69.00 per night. It’s gigantic, and on the newly renovated fourth floor with a balcony overlooking the pool and the broad Columbia beyond. The stylish décor includes a flat-screen TV mounted over the desk, a pillow-top bed and a small sofa and glass-topped coffee table. It’s cool being on this little island in the middle of the river, surrounded by restaurants and shops galore.
I opted for a “chill-out evening:” working on this journal, reading the Oregonian, grabbing a fast food meal and watching a show about Yosemite on the Travel Channel. I savored the irony of sitting in Oregon and viewing a travelogue about my home! Tomorrow starts day six of the adventure: the coast!
9:30 a.m. Thursday, May 10
(South Beach State Park)
I’m lingering over one last cup of campsite coffee. I just noticed my fingers aren’t working – stiff thumb, I guess. I didn’t make it to Florence yesterday. I ran out of daylight and I was hungry for Newport oysters.
Yesterday was another good one. I got a very late start out of Portland after lazing around the hotel room, reading and writing. I found a place to ship Mom’s ”Nurturing Family” Asian rabbit print and finally got on the freeway at noon.
The drive to Tillamook was beautiful, through a human planted forest which was a mere seventy-five years old. The biggest burn ever had raced through there in the 1930’s.
The Tillamook Cheese Factory was well worth the stop. I’m not sure why I find production lines so fascinating and hypnotic. Breakfast consisted of a wild huckleberry ice cream cone. Actually, the cone turned out to be lunch as well.
Next up: Cape Lookout. Bill did not exaggerate. This was an exceptionally beautiful spot with unparalleled vistas. Due to time constraints, I wasn’t able to reach the point, but thoroughly enjoyed the 2 hour – 3 mile stroll along the muddy trail with views of the Pacific on each side of the thin peninsula. It was like being on a very high, very long pier!
It became apparent I wasn’t going to make it to Florence in time to set up camp in daylight, so I settled on Newport and found a vacant “hook-up” site here at South Beach State Park away from the madding crowds, and surrounded by rhododendron. (It’s interesting that I’ve had no allergy issues here despite the green flowery spring.) At $22.00 per night, the campground was not a bargain. I was tempted to spring for one of the very cool yurts, but my skinflint nature prevailed.
After setting up the tent, I changed my muddy khakis and headed to the waterfront in search of oysters at the “Roguery” – a tip provided by one of my insurance clients. I couldn’t find it, but did hit upon the Rogue Ales Public House where I wolfed down a seafood platter while quaffing a Dead Guy Red. I lingered until 9:30 listening to the tales of the authentic fisherman hanging out in the pub. (Upon return, I discovered this was the place my client was talking about)
I awakened this morning at 6:30 a.m., after a warm and toasty nights rest. The water got boiled for coffee at about 7:00 a.m. and I strolled to the beach. There were only two of us on the strand (three, counting the dog). It was cloudy and cool with a few godwits playing in the surf. The walk there was lovely, with Spanish Broom sweetening the salty air. I didn’t know stuff could grow in sand!
Now it’s time to pack up again. I’ve got a bunch of driving ahead today – let’s plan it.
10:30 Coffee stop at Dutch Bros.
11:00 Leave Newport
12:00 Sea Lion Caves
1:30 Lunch in Florence
2:30 Leave for Roseburg
4:30 Stop for a stretch
6:00 Arrive Ashland
8:41 a.m. Friday, May 11.
Best Western Windsor Inn
Another stunning day in Oregon. I’m astounded at how spectacular the weather has been all week. This morning, when Al Roker flashed on the Today Show climate map, only one area wasn’t stormy – here. He led in by noting the gorgeous weather in the Pacific Northwest. The goddess strikes!
Yesterday was another fun adventure. I pulled into Sea Lion Caves precisely at noon, grabbed a jacket, binoculars and headed down the elevator. While not as huge as anticipated (the world’s largest sea cave?) it was pretty cool, literally and figuratively. And smelly, too – like seal poop!
The animals were magnificent and I learned the difference between seals and sea lions (roar) – ear flaps and walkable flippers on the latter. The lighthouse view and rookery overlook were also worth a stop, so all in all, worth the nine bucks. I particularly enjoyed watching the sea lions using the ocean surge to launch themselves onto the rocks. Bonus, I spotted a new bird: pigeon guillemots with bright orange feet.
Next stop: Florence for brunch. There was a highway sign for “Mo’s”, so I pulled over and parked in the cute and tidy town. I feasted on a shrimp salad, clam chowder and fresh bread along with a Diet Pepsi while overlooking the picturesque inlet. All this for $10.00! I’d be hard put to dispute their claim of serving the “World’s Best Clam Chowder.”
Back in the car, I jammed to Ashland, with just a short stop in Roseburg to stretch my legs and visit Target. The route along the Umpqua River was scenic (naturally) and it occurred to me that Oregon is like America’s New Zealand: clean and green with polite inhabitants.
8:00 p.m. Friday, May 11
Best Western Windsor Inn
Ashland has been pretty neat, although it was a rush getting here. I arrived in town on time but completely miscalculated my hotel location (the theme of this trip) and wasted a half hour circling. This left me with exactly twenty minutes to unload, shower, primp and change for the evening performance of “Gem of the Ocean” at 8:00 p.m. I did it!!
There were hundreds of noisy teens milling on the plaza so I surmised that this must be high school theater week or something. Fearing the worst, I nestled in to my last row seat amidst twenty five of them. Once the show started, they were beautifully behaved and I caught a few fashion tips re: the latest trends (rolled-up cut-off jeans paired with ballet flats and plastic headbands).
The performance was Broadway caliber, with brilliant acting and precise staging. At times it was very moving with inspiring passages. I became mindful of some of the unfair criticism thrown at whites by some African-Americans. Here was a sold-out crowd of honkies completely engaged and supportive of a play about the black experience in 1920’s New York. The show got a standing ovation – deservedly.
The show got out late – 11ish. I was starving, but they roll up the sidewalks early in Oregon – even Taco Bell was closed. I returned to the room and munched on wheat crackers and (Tillamook) pepper jack washed down with some Dr. Pepper. It’s smart to travel with an ice chest.
Rising at 7:00 this morning, I grabbed a quick continental breakfast at the motel and found a good spot to park for my day exploring Ashland.
First up, the backstage tour, which was fascinating. 550 employees and 600 volunteers at OSF! An ambitious rotation of nine plays in repertory which requires meticulous planning and painstaking finesse in execution. Our first host, Gary, has been an actor with the company for 30 years (my age and cute), on a year-to-year contract. We got into all three theatres and I came out so brimming with enthusiasm that I considered buying a ticket for a third show that evening. Instead, I strolled Lithia Park and enjoyed another beautiful spring day. Feeling a little hungry, I popped into a pastry shop in the town square and bought a brie and sun-dried tomato tartine and mineral water which I enjoyed while seated at a sidewalk table reading the local news.
Then I returned to the Bowman Theater to watch “As You Like It” from the first row
while dodging flying spit (the actors'). It was a beautifully directed show with uncommon clarity and was truly engaging. Too bad I found their Rosalind rather unlikable. Orlando, on the other hand was a hottie. So glad he stood right in front of me in his near-naked boxing costume. And the aforementioned Gary played the old geezer. Is this what we fifty-ish actors are reduced to?
6:00 p.m Friday, May 11th
Standing Stone Brewing Company, Ashland
Standing Stone Cream Ale
(I know I’m out of sequence)
I am once again writing on scraps. Seated at my last brewery of the tour, I’m in a weird nostalgic mood. I almost ordered a Greek pizza to bookend my opening meal – but this trip is NOT over. There are two days left and more brews to come! The present one is sweet and light. This has been a cheap trip – usually only one meal a day out, costing between ten and twenty dollars. Here at Standing Stone the tab was $14.00. The pizza was good (if a bit sweet) topped with spinach, caramelized onion, ricotta and olive tapenade. Definitely stone fired – I have charcoal on my fingers.
10:00 a.m. Sunday, May 13th
Almanor Campground
I’m blessed with a spectacular morning on this, my final day on the road.
It took a bit of doing to get here, but this is one of the loveliest campgrounds I’ve ever been in. It’s a woodpecker party at present and I’m the interloper.
Yesterday, I bid Ashland adieu and headed south on Highway 5. I was back in Cali in a flash and stopped in Yreka for provisions and a little discount store shopping (6 placemats, a t-top and flip flops - $16.00).
Back on the road, I decided to bypass Lassen and settle into an early camp spot to end the vacay on a relaxing note. There was a 50 mile stretch of scenic byway through the Lassen National Forest ahead. There had to be a campground, right?
Au contraire. I hit the intersection with Highway 89 and stopped at the Ranger Station District Headquarters – which was closed. But they had campground maps out and no sign indicating things weren’t open, so I ventured the 15 miles to Eagle Lake. A lovely place, but the campgrounds were still chained off for the winter – so I backtracked to the highway and decided to head to Almanor – 25 miles in the opposite direction. Fortunately, at least part of the campground was open and here I sit with a view of the beautiful lake on this calm clear morning. I just returned from a stroll on the lakeside bikepath spotting geese, mergansers, grebes and a loon.
After setting up the tent, I changed my muddy khakis and headed to the waterfront in search of oysters at the “Roguery” – a tip provided by one of my insurance clients. I couldn’t find it, but did hit upon the Rogue Ales Public House where I wolfed down a seafood platter while quaffing a Dead Guy Red. I lingered until 9:30 listening to the tales of the authentic fisherman hanging out in the pub. (Upon return, I discovered this was the place my client was talking about)
I awakened this morning at 6:30 a.m., after a warm and toasty nights rest. The water got boiled for coffee at about 7:00 a.m. and I strolled to the beach. There were only two of us on the strand (three, counting the dog). It was cloudy and cool with a few godwits playing in the surf. The walk there was lovely, with Spanish Broom sweetening the salty air. I didn’t know stuff could grow in sand!
Now it’s time to pack up again. I’ve got a bunch of driving ahead today – let’s plan it.
10:30 Coffee stop at Dutch Bros.
11:00 Leave Newport
12:00 Sea Lion Caves
1:30 Lunch in Florence
2:30 Leave for Roseburg
4:30 Stop for a stretch
6:00 Arrive Ashland
8:41 a.m. Friday, May 11.
Best Western Windsor Inn
Another stunning day in Oregon. I’m astounded at how spectacular the weather has been all week. This morning, when Al Roker flashed on the Today Show climate map, only one area wasn’t stormy – here. He led in by noting the gorgeous weather in the Pacific Northwest. The goddess strikes!
Yesterday was another fun adventure. I pulled into Sea Lion Caves precisely at noon, grabbed a jacket, binoculars and headed down the elevator. While not as huge as anticipated (the world’s largest sea cave?) it was pretty cool, literally and figuratively. And smelly, too – like seal poop!
The animals were magnificent and I learned the difference between seals and sea lions (roar) – ear flaps and walkable flippers on the latter. The lighthouse view and rookery overlook were also worth a stop, so all in all, worth the nine bucks. I particularly enjoyed watching the sea lions using the ocean surge to launch themselves onto the rocks. Bonus, I spotted a new bird: pigeon guillemots with bright orange feet.
Next stop: Florence for brunch. There was a highway sign for “Mo’s”, so I pulled over and parked in the cute and tidy town. I feasted on a shrimp salad, clam chowder and fresh bread along with a Diet Pepsi while overlooking the picturesque inlet. All this for $10.00! I’d be hard put to dispute their claim of serving the “World’s Best Clam Chowder.”
Back in the car, I jammed to Ashland, with just a short stop in Roseburg to stretch my legs and visit Target. The route along the Umpqua River was scenic (naturally) and it occurred to me that Oregon is like America’s New Zealand: clean and green with polite inhabitants.
8:00 p.m. Friday, May 11
Best Western Windsor Inn
Ashland has been pretty neat, although it was a rush getting here. I arrived in town on time but completely miscalculated my hotel location (the theme of this trip) and wasted a half hour circling. This left me with exactly twenty minutes to unload, shower, primp and change for the evening performance of “Gem of the Ocean” at 8:00 p.m. I did it!!
There were hundreds of noisy teens milling on the plaza so I surmised that this must be high school theater week or something. Fearing the worst, I nestled in to my last row seat amidst twenty five of them. Once the show started, they were beautifully behaved and I caught a few fashion tips re: the latest trends (rolled-up cut-off jeans paired with ballet flats and plastic headbands).
The performance was Broadway caliber, with brilliant acting and precise staging. At times it was very moving with inspiring passages. I became mindful of some of the unfair criticism thrown at whites by some African-Americans. Here was a sold-out crowd of honkies completely engaged and supportive of a play about the black experience in 1920’s New York. The show got a standing ovation – deservedly.
The show got out late – 11ish. I was starving, but they roll up the sidewalks early in Oregon – even Taco Bell was closed. I returned to the room and munched on wheat crackers and (Tillamook) pepper jack washed down with some Dr. Pepper. It’s smart to travel with an ice chest.
Rising at 7:00 this morning, I grabbed a quick continental breakfast at the motel and found a good spot to park for my day exploring Ashland.
First up, the backstage tour, which was fascinating. 550 employees and 600 volunteers at OSF! An ambitious rotation of nine plays in repertory which requires meticulous planning and painstaking finesse in execution. Our first host, Gary, has been an actor with the company for 30 years (my age and cute), on a year-to-year contract. We got into all three theatres and I came out so brimming with enthusiasm that I considered buying a ticket for a third show that evening. Instead, I strolled Lithia Park and enjoyed another beautiful spring day. Feeling a little hungry, I popped into a pastry shop in the town square and bought a brie and sun-dried tomato tartine and mineral water which I enjoyed while seated at a sidewalk table reading the local news.
Then I returned to the Bowman Theater to watch “As You Like It” from the first row
while dodging flying spit (the actors'). It was a beautifully directed show with uncommon clarity and was truly engaging. Too bad I found their Rosalind rather unlikable. Orlando, on the other hand was a hottie. So glad he stood right in front of me in his near-naked boxing costume. And the aforementioned Gary played the old geezer. Is this what we fifty-ish actors are reduced to?
6:00 p.m Friday, May 11th
Standing Stone Brewing Company, Ashland
Standing Stone Cream Ale
(I know I’m out of sequence)
I am once again writing on scraps. Seated at my last brewery of the tour, I’m in a weird nostalgic mood. I almost ordered a Greek pizza to bookend my opening meal – but this trip is NOT over. There are two days left and more brews to come! The present one is sweet and light. This has been a cheap trip – usually only one meal a day out, costing between ten and twenty dollars. Here at Standing Stone the tab was $14.00. The pizza was good (if a bit sweet) topped with spinach, caramelized onion, ricotta and olive tapenade. Definitely stone fired – I have charcoal on my fingers.
10:00 a.m. Sunday, May 13th
Almanor Campground
I’m blessed with a spectacular morning on this, my final day on the road.
It took a bit of doing to get here, but this is one of the loveliest campgrounds I’ve ever been in. It’s a woodpecker party at present and I’m the interloper.
Yesterday, I bid Ashland adieu and headed south on Highway 5. I was back in Cali in a flash and stopped in Yreka for provisions and a little discount store shopping (6 placemats, a t-top and flip flops - $16.00).
Back on the road, I decided to bypass Lassen and settle into an early camp spot to end the vacay on a relaxing note. There was a 50 mile stretch of scenic byway through the Lassen National Forest ahead. There had to be a campground, right?
Au contraire. I hit the intersection with Highway 89 and stopped at the Ranger Station District Headquarters – which was closed. But they had campground maps out and no sign indicating things weren’t open, so I ventured the 15 miles to Eagle Lake. A lovely place, but the campgrounds were still chained off for the winter – so I backtracked to the highway and decided to head to Almanor – 25 miles in the opposite direction. Fortunately, at least part of the campground was open and here I sit with a view of the beautiful lake on this calm clear morning. I just returned from a stroll on the lakeside bikepath spotting geese, mergansers, grebes and a loon.
Time for the final pack-up and then down 395 with a planned stop at Great Basin Brewery , the RiverFest, WinCo Foods and maybe In-N-Out. I can’t resist one more cup of coffee. . .
A well crafted vacation is like a fine microbrew. You measure ingredients, combine and wait for time to pass, in eager anticipation. You embark and your glass is full, with a rich head. You savor the first sip and then eagerly take a few big gulps, thinking this drink will last forever. Halfway through, you analyze the complexities, enjoy the unique transformational relaxation and try to make it last. With the few remaining sips there is the bittersweet inevitability of completion along with a wonderful satisfaction. And there’s always the next pint to look forward to.
Oregon surpassed my expectations as a vacation destination. Each road was more beautiful than the last and the deep intense spring green brought optimism with each new morning. The skies never once threatened rain and it averaged 70° each day of the journey. The residents seemed reserved and careful and this was illustrated in their immaculate neighborhoods and beautiful gardens.
Some highlights:
The morning trail at Collier
The Reuben at Bend Brewery
The drive through the Hood River Valley
Full Sail Brewery
Multnomah Falls
The room at the Red Lion
Powell’s Books
Tillamook Cheese Factory (and the garlic cheddar!)
Cape Lookout
Morning walk at South Beach
“Gem of the Ocean” and the backstage tour at OSF
Lake Almanor Campground
Rhododendrons on the coast
Tour at Japanese Gardens
Mo’s Chowder
The award winning brew: Full Sail Limited 02
P.S. Great Basin Brewery in Reno was one of the best stops of the trip. Great food, good ale and a cool irony that I traveled 1500 miles to find one of the finest brewpubs in my backyard.
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11:55 AM
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