Travel, Arts & Life in the Mountains

Tuesday, March 27, 2007

Bouncing Back to Boise

I’m entertaining a crackpot scheme to relocate from my mountain hideaway to a more urban environment, albeit one with friendly people, a low crime rate and reasonably priced real estate. So I embarked on an investigative weekend to Boise, Idaho. This is a city I’ve visited many times before, but this time I went with the intention of getting a feel for the lifestyle.

Day One

Rising at 2:45 a.m. to catch an early flight does not put me in a pretty mood. I made it to Reno Airport by 6:20 a.m.– right on time. The Southwest departure was the first empty flight I’ve been on in years – it’s been a lo-o-o-ng time since I had a whole row of seats to myself. Descending into Boise, there was a brown haze – NO NO NO! Not what I had in mind. Dollar Rent-A-Car hooked me up with a brand new Dodge Caliber. Not bad for $15.00 per day.

I bee-lined straight to the North End, and promptly drove by the six or so homes I had scoped out in advance on the net. This first perusal was definitely not encouraging. The neighborhood behind the Co-op was nowhere near as charming as I recalled (this could have something to do with the winter naked trees and brown lawns). As I traveled 15 or so blocks north to the neighborhood I could afford, I didn’t see one home that I could envision spending the rest of my life in. So, I got that out of the way.

A little discouraged, and very sleepy, I headed downtown for a stroll and brunch. It was a beautiful day – 70 degrees and the city streets were empty. I descended on Grape Escape at the corner of Eighth and Idaho. Settling into a lovely cushioned garden bench outside, I basked in the warm spring rays while enjoying a “half-tank” of biscuits and sausage gravy, with a side of scrambled eggs. I washed it down with a dynamite (not sweet) Mango iced tea and was surrounded by friendly, outgoing Boiseans.

After brunch, I wandered back to the car and started to feel really funky. I headed over to Ann Morrison Park and found a bench to lie on in the sunshine. I was surprised by the noise of the city, and the large gathering of Hispanics playing soccer on this lovely Saturday afternoon. The warm sunlight only made me feel more tired and since I was really craving a nap – I phoned the Doubletree Club, and was told it would be okay to check in early. A “Sweet Dreams” bed was never more inviting and I quickly conked out for a two hour snooze.

Upon awakening, I wandered along the riverside greenbelt bike path and popped in the neighboring nail salon for a manicure. Although I felt a little lame missing out on the St. Paddy’s Day fun, I decided it best to chill out in the room to catch my beloved Bruins play Indiana in the March Madness NCAA tournament. All of sudden, it was time to dash out to the Hillcrest Mall at Overland and Orchard, where SCT (Stage Coach Theatre) was presenting “Wayside Motor Inn,” a slightly bent comedy by AR Gurney.

The show exemplified community theater. There were some great performances, while others were only so-so. One of the main actors looked like he was on his deathbed, although his character was not ailing. He was 6’2” and weighed less than me, I think (I’m 116!). He appeared ashen and seemed to have a hard time speaking. It was a disturbing casting choice for a comedy. Or maybe he is healthy and just gives off an “I’m about to croak” vibe. As you can see, this day made me cynical, The SCT audience was not at all hip, and I returned back to the hotel thinking I was out of mind for considering relocating.

Day Two

Flash forward twelve hours: after a good night sleep, a shower, a raspberry cheese croissant and news of the Bruin victory, life was looking a lot better.

I jumped in the Caliber and veered right on Park Center Drive to explore the neighborhoods of northeast Boise. Here there were really nice, if newer, blocks of homes, bicyclists everywhere and I just happened into a hidden park at the end of the new tracts along the Boise River. I got out of the car, and there were birds calling furiously all around me. I raced back to grab my binocs and spent a lovely half hour, spotting herons, hawks, hearing blackbirds and woodpeckers and thinking I really didn’t need to drive to the Snake River to raptor-watch.

I had intended to check out some new homes, but as I drove through one new development near the park, I confirmed that I really do not like tract homes, and I won’t live long enough for the landscaping to mature. Give me that big tree in the backyard NOW.

I trawled through the neighborhood behind the historic mansions on Warm Springs Road next and found the adorable little neighborhood I was looking for in the East End. I headed further out Warm Springs to the site of Idaho Shakespeare and ultimately found a turnout at Bannock Pools and an Oregon Trail marker. I came back, headed up to an exclusive neighborhood near Table Rock with incredible views and then went back downtown to grab some lunch.

Still confused by the downtown parking signs (Is there a one hour limit 24/7? Why no signs for clarification?) I parked about six blocks from the center of town where it was clear I wouldn’t be ticketed. As I walked by the Capitol, I spotted a small crowd converged on the steps. An anti-war demonstration was in progress, with participants holding tombstones, one for each state indicating the number of casualties. I joined the small throng (my people!) and saw a nice mix of not quite ex-hippies, families with young children, activist type seniors and a fair amount of singles in my age group. An encouraging sign.

Next stop, a return trip to the Casbah, a Mediterranean restaurant two doors down from Grape Escape. The lamb shawarma wrap was good if not great, but the dry Greek rose that I ordered to accompany it was outstanding. The place was almost empty and I enjoyed the funky décor, which was exactly as I remembered it.

I asked the server if she knew of a place along the river to rent bikes. She said she didn’t, but offered to find out. She called her Dad, a member of the Boise PD and formerly of the river bike patrol. He called her back with info and addresses for two locations. Now, that's service. After watching all the happy cyclists. I was raring to get on two wheels. But then my cell phone rang, and it was Bob from Agoura calling to say “hi” – so after lunch I strolled out to the plaza adjacent to Boise Center, found a bench away from traffic and had a nice little catch up chat.

Back on the streets and craving dessert I stopped into Coldstone Creamery for a bowl of cheesecake ice cream with Heath bar mix-ins. I waddled out of there and decided it was getting a little late to bike but instead would revisit the North End neighborhood I spurned the day before. Now, it appeared completely charming – funny what a mood change (and sleep) will do.

I spotted an Open House sign and drove up Horizon Drive to discover this utterly lovely, completely redone home (bamboo floors, black granite with cherry cabinets in the kitchen, spankin’ new bathrooms) with an incredible view of grassy hillsides and a hidden tucked away location (less than a mile from the state capitol building). Just reduced to $399.000. Here was a home I could live in. Of course it was totally over my $250,000 housing budget. Well, I suppose if I revise my economic thinking, I could make it happen.

Michelle called and we chatted for a bit, and then I set out to explore a little of Garden City and the Boise Bench – and quickly crossed those areas off the list of potential enclaves. I came back downtown, this time to Julia Davis Park, and did another stroll along the Boise River before the sun started fading in the west.

Back at the DT Club – the magnetic pull of the bed was irresistible and I dropped off for another quick nap before making some calls to friends and getting ready for a quick trip in to town for some Sunday evening music.

Tom Grainey’s Pub is in the neat basque section of BoDo (Boise Downtown. As an aside, the transit system there is “BUS” - Boise Urban Stages – how cool is that?) I felt a little weird heading in solo, even more so when the thronging crowd consisted of the four groupies of Doug Cameron and me. I guess Sunday after St. Patrick’s Day is a slow night in the bar business. Anyway, I ordered a Dewars & Soda, savored the interesting architecture that is featured in turn-of- the-century buildings, and listened to two talented guitar guys play for about an hour.

Day Three

For some reason, the next morning I was craving IHOP Swedish Pancakes, so after packing up and spending an hour or so finalizing the cruise group I’d been working on, I drove down Federal Way, enjoying the grand panorama of downtown, to my breakfast destination. Neither the lingonberry butter or friendly server disappointed and I spent a quiet hour enjoying my hearty breakfast and reading the Idaho Statesman to learn all about the Bronco women’s basketball team (who are mainly from Orange County).

I was burning daylight, so got back in the Caliber and droved up into the hills to Bogus Basin Nordic, exactly thirty minutes from the North End. When I arrived, there was one car in the parking lot. I went up to the lodge to try the door, and sure enough it was open! Once inside, I met an amiable woman who fitted my skis and boots and sold me my trail pass – all for $15.00. (Did I mention, I love Idaho?). It turns out we had a lot in common, she know the folks from Mammoth Nordic here in town, lives in the Boise neighborhood I’ve been scoping and gave me a lot of insight into the area. Michelle was about my age, and I thought “this is the type of friend I’d like to make here.”

I set out on Nordic Highway (the easiest trail there) and enjoyed the warm spring afternoon. The trail was set on a wide road along steep terrain (reminiscent of Mt. Waterman in SoCal) and featured lovely vistas of the Treasure Valley (although slightly tainted by pollution). I had some great tunes with me and relished the first skiing I’d done in set tracks all winter. Even though it was now three in the afternoon, I was the only person who had skied in the tracks all day!

All too soon, it was time to head back to the car and down the hill to the airport. Another empty flight made the trip home a breeze and I made it back to Meadow Lane before midnight. And so the question remains unanswered: Is this the place I want to call home? Am I ready to leave my beloved Sierra? Or should I check out other locales? What’s great is that I don’t have to make any decisions at present, which actually relieves a lot of pressure. The right move, whether or not it involves moving, will reveal itself. But then, there’s that house in the hills with the new bamboo floors and a view of a canyon just made for redtail hawks. . .